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Mexico City’s Azteca Stadium is a 15-kilometer journey from the Zócalo—more or less the center of the metropolis of 18 million inhabitants. The drive can take the 18 minutes predicted by Google Maps, but it can easily exceed an hour if you happen to be in the middle of what my driver calls “the peak,” the time when the city’s perpetual swarm of cars swells to bursting.
The first feeling on seeing the Coloso de Santa Úrsula— the nickname given to the stadium where both Pelé and Maradona played…
